Sunscreens that go beyond the science of skin defence
In this blog, we explore the new and improved sunscreen forumations and EU compliant labelling of our popular AlumierMD sunscreen collection. Written and produced by AlumierMD.
Sunscreen update
What are the new ingredients in the AlumierMD sunscreens and why did these products undergo reformulation?
We have listened to our partners and consumers who have asked for protection against HEV (blue light from
the sun and screens), infrared light, and environmental pollutants.
We have therefore reformulated our sunscreens to include Physavie, a plant extract that protects against
the damaging effects of HEV, Elix-IR to protect against the damaging effect of infrared light/heat energy,
and Exo-P™ for superior shielding against pollution, specifically, particulate matter (≤PM2.5).
This unlocks the full potential of sunscreens which offer high-performance daily protection with
sunscreens that go beyond the science of skin defence. Superior shielding, environmental protection,
and daily hydration defence.
Why are Clear Shield Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 42 and Sheer Hydration Broad Spectrum Sunscreen
Versatile Tint/Untinted SPF 40 now labelled as SPF 30?
European Commission regulation mandates that sunscreens with an SPF rating between 30 and 50 are to be
labelled as SPF 30. This measure is part of their broader efforts to simplify and standardise sunscreen labelling.
This means our SPF 40 and 42 sunscreens must now say SPF 30 on the bottle, even though the percentage
of zinc oxide (7%) and titanium dioxide (6.18% in Clear Shield, 6.28% in Sheer Hydration Versatile Tint/Untinted)
remain the same. Therefore, the protection against burning (UVB, which is represented by SPF rating) remains
unchanged, and they will continue to be labelled SPF 40 and SPF 42 in North America, where these regulations
do not apply.
Why doesn’t AlumierMD create an SPF 50?
Formulating sunscreens with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide requires careful consideration. Photostability,
frequency of application, and spectrum of protection are all important factors for optimally protecting the skin.
Both titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are the only sunscreen filters recognised as safe and effective (GRASE)
by the FDA.
Higher sun protection products with physical filters are difficult to formulate for cosmetic elegance and are
often mixed with chemicals for a more appealing texture. At AlumierMD, we chose physical filters exclusively,
reflecting our commitment to clean science. The three sunscreens that have undergone new and improved
reformulations are among our top ten best-sellers, so we didn’t want to change formulas our professionals
and their patients already know and love.
Currently, we are not developing an SPF 50, as our present SPF rating aligns with all international
dermatological guidelines for SPF ratings and sun safety. We have been able to achieve a high SPF in our
sunscreens without leaving a white cast or adding chemical filters to enhance the cosmetic elegance. These
sunscreens feel lightweight and comfortable, and 90% of users reported more hydrated skin when using them.
What is the difference between UVB ray absorption with different SPF ratings?
SPF 15 filters 93% UVB – 7% gets through
SPF 30 filters 97% UVB – 3% gets through
SPF 45 filters 97.8% UVB – 2.2% gets through
SPF 50 filters 98% UVB – 2% gets through
You can see here that the difference between SPF 30 and SPF 50 in terms of UVB absorption is just 1%.
Is SPF the most important thing when looking for a sunscreen?
There are so many sunscreens available, and they’re all labelled with lots of confusing information, so it’s
easy to just reach for the one that looks like it has the highest protection – SPF 50 is higher than 30 and 40,
so that’s better, right? Not always.
If SPF is the only thing considered when it comes to defending skin against the damaging impact of the sun
and environment, which eventually leads to advanced signs of ageing, we encourage everyone to think more
broadly to get ahead of optimizing sun safety.
The negative effects of the sun’s rays include the degradation of skin health, advanced signs of ageing,
sensitivity, and the worsening of conditions like blemish-prone and redness-prone skin. Skin cancer is also
a concern, and all these issues stem from a multitude of rays, not just burning UVB rays. UVB rays only make
up approximately 5% of the UV rays that reach the earth. Environmental damage, the full spectrum of light from
the sun (including UVA, which makes up approximately 95% of the UV rays and causes the most long-term
dermatological damage), blue light, and infrared also play significant roles. Additionally, free radicals
and pollution contribute to skin damage.
What does SPF mean and what does it protect against?
UVB UVA Pollution Free Radicals Blue Light Infrared Dehydration
✓ × × × × × ×
SPF is important, but it’s not the only thing you need to look for in a sunscreen. It turns out that choosing a
high SPF isn’t a shortcut to total skin protection.
Does an SPF 40/42, labelled as an SPF 30 offer a significant amount of protection?
Our newly labelled SPF 30 still offers the same protection against UVA and UVB rays using the same
concentration and physical filters as our SPF 40/42. It is formulated with identical percentages of physical
filters, with changes only to the labelling to comply with regulatory guidelines and the addition of new
ingredients to enhance environmental protection. The products will maintain their current appearance
and texture, providing the same SPF rating and concentration of filters.
Please note, the SPF rating measures protection solely against UVB rays (290nm – 320nm), which cause
sunburn and some skin cancers, but does not indicate protection against UVA radiation (320-400nm).
Research indicates that many consumers mistakenly assume that a higher SPF number offers greater
protection and allows for prolonged sun exposure, potentially increasing the risk of skin damage from
prolonged UV radiation exposure.
Using an SPF 40/42, labelled as an SPF 30, will the skin be protected all day long?
Physical UV filters offer optimal protection and can remain stable for extended periods when exposed
to sunlight. However, sweat, touching your face and even removing clothing can remove product from your
skin, so all sunscreens need to be applied generously for adequate protection; we recommend ½ tsp (for a
full face). According to the EU Commission, you need to reapply as directed on the sunscreen bottle. Please
follow the manufacturer’s guidelines. For more tips on the difference between topping up your sunscreen, and
reapplying sunscreen, we have a full blog on it on our website. (Please see references below. The US paper
states “a nickel amount”, for UK/EU markets ½ teaspoon is roughly and equal amount, a 5 pence piece is
smaller than a nickel.)
What is the difference between a chemical and physical sunscreen filters?
A chemical filter takes approximately 20 minutes to start working as it needs to absorb and convert to heat
energy before full protection can begin. One of the skin’s primary functions is absorption, which includes
skincare products and ingredients like chemical sunscreen filters applied to the face and body. After this
20-minute absorption period, a chemical reaction occurs, converting UV rays into heat energy, which is why
some chemical sunscreen filters are associated with heat rash or prickly heat.
AlumierMD uses 100% physical (mineral) filters that primarily reflect and scatter UV rays away from
the skin. Though a very small amount may be absorbed, it only penetrates the stratum corneum, the skin’s
most superficial layer. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, as physical filters, do not need to absorb,
providing immediate protection and exceptional photostability.
What is photostability and why does it matter?
Photo (sun) stability (longevity) refers to how resilient a skincare ingredient is when exposed to the sun. Some
chemical sunscreen filters are known to have poor photostability which means they may breakdown within two
hours of exposure. This is why it’s always recommended to reapply sunscreen every two hours.
One of the reasons zinc oxide and titanium dioxide were certified at GRASE was their exceptional
photostability, offering physical protection until the product is removed. You still need to reapply sunscreen
every two hours, even if it uses zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. This is because factors like sweating,
swimming, and towel drying can remove or diminish the effectiveness of the sunscreen, regardless of its
stability or the ingredients used.
Are sunscreens safe to use 365 days a year?
Physical filters have been granted the GRASE rating by the FDA, indicating they are generally recognised
as safe and effective to use. Both filters are classified as broad-spectrum mineral filters providing
comprehenvie sun protection, with zinc widely recognised for its healing properties. Physical filters
tend to maintain photostability longer since they do not convert into heat energy, which would otherwise
accelerate degradation.
AlumierMD sunscreens provide triple defence with antioxidants and hydrating agents, offering effortless daily
wear in both tinted and untinted options for superior daily protection.
Using an SPF 40/42 labelled as an SPF30, will I still get enough Vitamin D?
Yes, a study of 5,920 adults found that seeking shade and wearing long-sleeved clothing were linked to
lower vitamin D levels. However, using sunscreen frequently, whether in small or large amounts did not
affect vitamin D levels. Reviews support that conventional sunscreen use has little or no impact on vitamin D.
Interestingly, in Australia, sunscreen users tend to have higher vitamin D levels because they spend more
time outdoors. Similarly, a study in Scotland found that sunscreen use improved vitamin D levels.
REFERENCES:
- The Skin Cancer Foundation. (2024). The Skin Cancer Foundation Offers Tips on Choosing and Using
Sunscreen. The Skin Cancer Foundation. 1(1), p.1. [Online]. Available at: https://www.skincancer.org/press/theskin-
cancer-foundation-offers-tips-on-choosing-and-using-sunscr [Accessed 13 June 2024]. - Jonathan J Neville, 1 Tommaso Palmieri, 1 and Antony R Young. (2021). Physical Determinants of Vitamin D
Photosynthesis: A Review. PubMedCentral. 1(1). [Online]. Available at: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/
articles/PMC7839826/ [Accessed 13 June 2024]. - Nowell Solish, M.D., FRCP(C},1 Shannon Humphrey MD FRCPC,2 Brittany Waller MD FR. (2012).
PHOTOPROTECTION WITH MINERAL-BASED SUNSCREENS. PHOTOPROTECTION WITH MINERAL-BASED
SUNSCREENS. 1(1), p.5. [Online]. Available at: https://alumierlabs.docebosaas.com/learn/course/40/play/564/
alumiermd-photoprotection-paper [Accessed 13 June 2024].
